































































































































































































f 




Spring 

Bolt 


Brake 

Shaft 

Joints 


Wheel 

Bearings 


Differential 


Spring 

Bolt 


Spring 

Bolt 


Steering 

Knuckle 

Wheel 

Bearings 

Steering 

Arm 

Bill 

Waicr Pump 


Universal 

Joints 


Steering 
Knuckle 
Drag 
Link 
Sockets 
Steerin 
Knuckle 
Wheel 
Bearings 
Steering^ 
Arm \ 

Pin / 

Fan 


Generator 
Spring 
Bolt 
Drag \ 
Link ^ 
Sockets / 
Steering s 
Gear j 
A rm / 
Steering y 
Gear / 
Case / 


Spring 

Bolt 


Spring 

Bolt 


Clutch and 

Transmissio 

Case 


Universal 

Joints 


Spring 

Bolt 


Brake 

Shaft 

Joints 


W heel 
Bearings 


















































A CHECKING SYSTEM 
OF UPKEEP 

i*or 

AUTOMOBILES AND TRUCKS 


BY 

R. C. ROGNON 


President of the 



Price $2.00 


Published by 

MONROE PRESS 

225 WEST 39th STREET 
NEW YORK 














Copyright, 1!H8, 

BY 

MONROE PRESS 


All Rights Reserved 





-5 1918 

©CU508043 


v C. I 


I am stronger than the combined armies of the World; 

I have killed more men than all the wars of the World; 

I am more deadly than bullets: 

I have wrecked more homes than the mightiest of siege 
guns; 

I steal in the United States alone over Three Hundred 
Million Dollars each year. 

I find my victims everywhere, among the rich and poor 
alike, the young and the old, the strong and the 
weak, widows and orphans know me. 

I loom up in such proportions, that I cast my shadow over 
every field of labor, from the turning of the grind¬ 
stone to the moving of every train. 

I am relentless, I am everywhere, in the home, on the 
street, at railroad crossings and on the sea. 

I bring sickness, degradation, and death, yet few seok to 
avoid me. 

I am vour worst enemv, I am Carelessness. 





INTRODUCTION. 


Few people realize the amount of time and money that can 
be saved if they would only take proper care of their ears, 
in this time of need we must learn the meaning of thrift in 
all things. We are constantly confronted with conservation 
measures in food, coal, and other essentials, and the con¬ 
servation of money is equally important, patriotic and wise. 
Carelessness in the care of the car is the cause of more than 
fifty per cent of the broken down cars that are in the repair 
shops in the United States, today. Automobile salesmen 
have impressed their customers with the importance of 
j)roper upkeep. Manufacturers have spent large sums of 
money for technical instruction books pertaining to the con¬ 
struction of their cars, yet the waste goes on. Who is to 
blame ? 

The simple fact is that no concise and practical plan has 
been outlined, for the owner, to enable him to take proper 
care of his car, either by himself or through his garage man. 
To outline in a simple and condensed form a checking system 
of upkeep which will prolong the usefulness of the car, re¬ 
duce the yearly sum expended for its maintenance and pro¬ 
mote a better understanding between owner and repair man, 
is the mission of this little book. 


S. A. M. 




























The Society of Automobile Mechanics represents your 
garage or repair man, and this booklet is their appeal for a 
systematic method of upkeep to replace the happy-go-lucky, 
hit-or-miss method now in vogue. No one in the automobile 
business comes closer to the owner and his viewpoints on 
this subject than the automobile mechanic. To elevate our 
craftsmahship and to promote the greatest measure of 
efficiency, standardization is essential, and a uniform and 
regular plan of upkeep for the car is as necessary for its 
efficiency as a proper diet is for the well being of the 
individual. To attain this object we need the confidence 
and co-operation of the owner. 

Before the advent of the automobile the horse served 
as a means for recreation and travel, and unless the horse 
was well fed and properly cared for right from the start, 
a sacrifice of pleasure and travel was incurred. Today the 
automobile is so substantially constructed and such a per¬ 
fect piece of mechanism that it can run for a considerable 
length of time with very little attention to its upkeep 
before any signs of trouble appear. But when trouble 
does come, it comes thick and fast, necessitating a belated 
effort at repairs and usually resulting in a complete re¬ 
building of the car or a resort to the more popular method 
of trading it in for a new one. 

Years of experience have convinced the Society of Auto¬ 
mobile Mechanics that the system of upkeep here outlined 
will prove a boon to the automobile owner and repair man. 
Mileage is the foundation of this system. Series A repre¬ 
sents the work to be done for every 100 miles traveled, and 
consists of ten operations. Series B represents the addi- 


tional work to be done after 500 miles have been traveled. 
Series C represents the additional work to be done after 
1000 miles have been traveled. Series D represents the 
additional work to be done after 2000 miles have been 
traveled, and so forth up to 50,000 miles. If the operations 
outlined in series A are conscientiously performed for every 
100 miles up to 50,000 and series B, C, D, and so forth 
at their respective mileage intervals, and a record of their 
operations and cost kept in the spaces allotted to them, 
the owner will find that the expense of upkeep is consider¬ 
ably reduced and he will have the added pleasure of the 
constant use of a car in excellent running condition. 

Use your instruction book first, then keep a record of 
upkeep, using our booklet, but the most important of all 
is to confide in a competent repair man, not after you are 
in trouble, but before troubles develop. It is unnecessary 
for us to print a booklet for every make of car on the 
market, and as all manufacturers use nearly the same 
principle in construction, and are different only in design 
of the different units, the care of the different makes will 
vary but little. 


lNDfcX. 


PAGE 


Series A. Every 100 miles. 15 

Operation No. 1. Gasoline Level. 15 

Operation No. 2. Oil Level. 15 

Operation No. 3. Water Level. 15 

Operation No. 4. Tire Pressure. 15 

Operation No. 5. Lubricate Fan. 17 

Operation No. G. Lubricate Steering Knuckle and Tie Rod 

Pins. 17 

Operation No. 7. Lubricate Spring Shackle Bolts. 17 

Operation No. S, No. 9 and No. 10. IS 


Series B. Every 500 miles 


18 


Operation No. 11. 
Operation No. 12. 
Operation No. 13. 
Operation No. 14. 
Operation No. 15. 
Operation No. 10. 
Operation No. 17. 


Lubricate and Adjust Speedometer. 18 

Lubricate Drag Link Joints. IS 

Adjust Fan. IS 

Lubricate Ignition Unit Bearings. 10 

Lubricate Generator Bearings. 19 

Lubricate Starting Motor Bearings.: 19 

Lubricate Spark and Throttle Control 
Joints. 


Operation 

Operation 

Operation 

Operation 

Operation 

Operation 

Operation 

Operation 

Operation 

Operation 


No. 18. 
No. 19. 
No. 20. 
No. 21. 
No. 22. 
No. 23. 
No. 24. 
No. 25. 
No. 2G. 
No. 27. 


Shaft 

Inspect Battery. 

Clean Carbon. 

Change Oil in Crank Case. 

Lubricate and Adjust Clutch. 

Lubricate Clutch and Brake Shaft 

Lubricate Universal Joints. 

Lubricate Rear Spring Seats.... 

Lubricate Timing Gears. 

Front Wheel Alignment. 

Tighten Spring Clamps. 

No. 29 and No. 30. 


. 20 

. 20 

. 21 

22 

22 

Joints. 23 


23 

25 

25 

2G 


Operation No. 28, 

Series C. Every 1000 miles. 26 


Operation 
()pe ration 
Operation 
< )peration 
Operation 
Operation 
Operation 
Operation 
Operation 
Operation 
Operation 


No. 31. Lubricate Springs. 26 

No. 32. Clean Spark Plugs. 26 

No. 33. Clean and Adjust Ignition Unit. 26 

No. 34. Test and Clean Generator . 27 

No. 35. Test and Clean Starting Motor. 28 

No. 36. Lubricate Differential . 28 

No. 37. Lubricate Transmission . 28 

No. 38., Clean Gasoline System. 28 

No. 39. Tighten Wheels and Rims. 28 

No. 40. Adjust Brakes. 29 

No. 41. 29 









































PAGE 

Series D. Every 2000 miles. 29 

Operation No. 42. Lubricate and Adjust Wheels . 29 

Operation No. 43. Lubricate and Adjust Steering Wheel- 31 

Operation No. 44. Grind Valves. 31 

Operation No. 45. Scrape or Burn Carbon. 33 

Operation No. 46. Adjust Valve Tappets and Test Compres¬ 
sion . 33 

Operation No. 47. Lubricate Speedometer Shaft. 33 

Series E. Every 5000 miles. General inspection. 33 

Operation No. 48. Tighten all Bolts and Nuts. 33 

Operation No. 49. Tighten Fenders . 34 

Operation No. 50. Tighten Radiator Base and Stay Rod.... 34 

Operation No. 51. Tighten Windshield . 34 

Operation No. 52. Lubricate Gas and Spark Hand Lever 

Joints . 34 

Operation No. 53. Tighten Door Hinges. 34 

Operation No. 54. Tighten License Brackets. 34 

Operation No. 55. Inspect Lighting System. 34 

Operation No. 56. Inspect Wiring and Connections. 34 

Operation No. 57. Tighten Dustpan . 35 

Operation No. 58. Tighten Engine Support Bolts. 35 

Operation No. 59. Tighten Hood Clamps. 35 

Operation No. 60. Clean Oil Pump. 35 

Operation No. 61. Clean Muffler . 35 

Operation No. 62. Clean Out; Water Circulating System.... 35 
Operation No. 63. Clean Out and Refill Transmission and 

Differential . 36 

Series F. Every 10,000 miles. Complete inspection. 36 

Operation No. 64. Shop Inspection. 36 

Operation No. 65. Touch Up Paint. 36 

History of Your Car. 37 

Record of Accidents. 37 

The Ford Car. 93 

Lubrication . 95 

Reasons for Overheating the Motor . 97 

Electricity . 100 

“Re Sure and Don’ts”. . 105 


requires special lubrication, such as over head valves, some styles of 
water pumps and accessories that are added to some cars. We have left 
blank spaces so that you can till in these operations if they are neces¬ 
sary, after referring to your instruction book or to your garage man. 

































15 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


SERIES A—EVERY 100 MILES 

Operation No. 1 

See that your gas tank is nearly full all the time. The 
more air space there is in the tank, the more the gasoline 
will evaporate. See that the tiny vent hole in the gasoline 
tank cap is not clogged, as this will obstruct proper flow 
of the gasoline where gravity or vacuum systems are used. 
Where a pressure system is used and the gas tank cap 
leaks air, fill the threads of the cap with soap. 

Operation No. 2 

See that the oil level in your crank case is correct, and 
use an oil you know is good. 

Operation No. 3 

Fill vour radiator to a level of within one-half inch from 
«/ 

the bottom of the neck of the radiator. This gives the 
water a better chance to circulate than if the neck were 
full. Clear rain water is free from chemicals that tend to 
clog up the tiny cells of your radiator and should be used 
if possible. A proportion of one-half pint of glycerine to 
five gallons of water should be used to keep the scale of 
lime and alkali from forming on the walls of the radiator. 
Keep mud and dirt from the outside surface of tin* 
radiator, as they obstruct proper circulation of air to cool 
the radiator. 

Operation No. 4 

Keep your tires properly inflated, and have the small 
tread cuts and sand blisters vulcanized before it is too late. 
Tire dealers throughout the country claim that over three- 




16 . A Checking tty stem of Upkeep 


fourths of tire troubles are caused from under-inflation. 
The air pressure in your tires acts as a brace for the fabric 
walls. The terrific road shocks your tires have to stand 
while supporting the weight of your car, will break down 
the fabric walls if they are not properly braced with air. 
Refer to your instruction book for proper pressure, or the 
number of pounds required is usually stamped on the tire. 
If you have to guess temporarily, twenty pounds of pres¬ 
sure to every inch of diameter of your tire is nearly correct.; 
Some motorists keep their tires under-inflated in the hot 
summer and there is considerable misunderstanding about 
summer pressure. Your tires should be kept at the recom¬ 
mended pressure, but as this pressure does not take into 
consideration the increase in temperature and conse¬ 
quent expansion, that is created by road contact in ex-1 
tremely hot weather, you should test your tires when they! 
are warm. If before starting on a long trip on a hot day,I 
you inflate your tires in a cool building after they havel 
stood on the cool cement floor all night, about twenty per 
cent decrease in pressure should bei allowed for expansion 
and your tires tested when they are hot to determine 
whether the allowance is correct. If your front tires show 
excessive wear see that your front wheels are properly} 
lined up. (See Operation No. 26.) If your rear wheels 
show excessive wear inspect to see that the complete rear 
end has not shifted out of line due to broken rear radius 
rod or loose spring clamps. Where the front and rear 
tires are of the same size they should be shifted when thev 
begin to show wear. The right rear wheel is subjected to the 
hardest work and when it begins to show wear it should 
be shifted to the left front wheel where the strain is the 



A Checking System of Upkeep 


17 


lightest of all the wheels, and the left rear can be shifted 
to the right front wheel. When yon stop to consider the 
weight of your car you won’t drive any distance on a flat 
lire, if you have to come in, wrap a rope around the rim. If 
your car is not in use for any length of time it should be 
jacked up and the pressure removed, relieving all strain 
from the tires. 

Operation No. 5 

The fan rotates at a high rate of speed, and should be 
lubricated every morning. If grease cups are used, give 
them one complete turn. If oil cups are used see that they 
are full. 

Operation No. 6 

See that the steering knuckle pivot pins and steering 
knuckle tie rod pins are well lubricated. If the oil or grease 
holes in the pins become clogged with dirt, the lubricant 
will not reach the bearings, making the car hard to steer. 
In this case the pins should be removed and oil holes 
cleaned out to make sure the lubricant reaches the bearing. 


Operation No. 7 

The front and rear spring shackle bolts must be well 
lubricated to get proper spring action. Be sure the grease 
oozes out of the edges of the bearing after turning down 
the grease cups. If oil cups are used, fill them and squirt 
a little oil between the outside edges of the shackles, 





18 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


Operation No. 8 


Operation No. 9 


Operation No. 10 


SERIES B—EVERY FIVE HUNDRED MILES 

Operation No. 11 

Be sure your speedometer swivel is well greased, fill and 
turn down the grease cup several times. See that the fibre 
gear meshes properly with the wheel gear. 

Operation No. 12 

The steering connecting rod, or sometimes called drag 
link, ball joints are usually packed with grease and have 
a leather boot laced around the joint to keep dirt and sand 
out. Keep these joints well packed with grease. Where 
grease cups are used, they should be turned down till the 
grease oozes out of the joints. 

Operation No. 13 

Be sure your fan belt is tight enough. It should be 
driven as fast as possible to properly cool the water in the 
radiator and the belt should be kept free from oil and 







A Checking System of Upkeep 


19 


grease. A good belt dressing adds to the life of the belt 
and prevents slipping. See that the fan blades are bent 
at the proper angle. 

Operation No. 14 

Your ignition unit requires very little attention as a rule. 
Where magneto is used, you should use a few drops of 
three-in-one oil. This can be purchased in handy cans to 
put in your tool box. Too much oil in your magneto will 
work into the armature and gum it up. Where battery 
ignition is used with the distributor either grease or oil 
cups are usually used. Too much lubricant should not be 
used as it will work up into the breaker points. 

Operation No. 15 

Three-in-one oil should be used in the generator bearings 
where they are of the ball type. These bearings are packed 
with vaseline when they leave the factory and the light 
machine oil works into the bearing and keeps the vaseline 
from gumming up. Where the bronze bearings are used 
common engine oil should be used. 

Operation No. 16 

See that the starting motor bearings are lubricated. If 
the bendix drive is used in connection with the starter, the 
shaft should not be lubricated with oil as it will gum up. 
Wash the shaft with gasoline and sprinkle dry Dixon’s 
Motor Graphite on the shaft and work the gear back and 
forth by hand. Where the plunger type of starting switch 
is used, a few drops of three-in-one oil will prevent wear 
to the shaft. (See Fig. 2.) 





20 


A Checking System of Upkeep 



Fig. 2 —Starting Motor, Showing Bendix Drive 


Operation No. 17 

See that the spark and throttle control shaft joints get 
a few drops of engine oil. 

Operation No. 18 

See that the plates in your battery are covered with at 
least one-half inch of distilled water. If yon can’t deter¬ 
mine the depth of the water, use a glass tube open at both 
ends. Drop it in the battery until it rests on the top of 
the plates and by putting your thumb over the top of the 
glass tube to create vacuum, you can determine the depth 
of the water, which will' stay in the tube after it is lifted 
from the battery. The battery terminals should be kept 
clean and free from corrosion so the current will have a 
clear path in and out of the battery. Sand paper should 
be used to clean them and vaseline smeared on the surfaces 
will prevent corrosion. Paint the outside of the battery 
terminals with a solution of enough alcohol to dissolve a 



A Checking System of Upkeep 


21 


few small pieces of sealing wax to prevent corrosion. Be 
sure and test battery with Hydrometer before adding 
water—not after. 


Operation No. 19 

The removing of carbon from the combustion chambers 
is necessary to have a smooth running motor. This should 
be done every two thousand miles. We have found that the 
guarding against carbon forming in hard cakes in the 
combustion chambers is necessary. After coming into 
the garage from a trip or when the motor is real warm, 
pour a tablespoonful of kerosene into each one of the pet- 
cocks or through the spark plug holes. This has a tendency 
to soften and loosen the carbon. After the kerosene has 
set for about ten minutes, start the motor and pour a pint 
of hot water very slowly through the air intake of the car¬ 
buretor. The motor sucks this water up into the hot com¬ 
bustion chambers where it turns to steam. The chemical 
action of the oxygen in the steam and the hot carbon form 
a gas, and with the loosened cakes of carbon pass through 
the exhaust valve. If a cutout is used in the exhaust pipe, 
this should be opened to eliminate the carbon from passing 
into the muffler. If your car is not equipped with a cut¬ 
out, a wooden mallet or block of wood should be used and 
the walls of the muffler tapped lightly while the motor is 
running. This will loosen the soot and carbon from the 
walls of the muffler, and the exhaust gases will blow them 
out. A tablespoonful of Dixon’s Motor Graphite should 
then be inhaled through the air intake of the carburetor. 
The motor sucks this dry lubricant into the combustion 
chambers where it works into the valve guides and on 





22 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


the cylinder walls. The lubricating qualities of graphite 
are not affected by the intense heat of the combustion 
chambers. 

Operation No. 20 

Remove the plugs from the bottom of your crank case 
and drain all the old oil out. Next put in the plug or plugs 
and fill the crank case to the proper oil level with kerosene. 
The motor should then be started and run at a good speed 
for fifteen seconds. This will churn the kerosene in the 
crank case, where it will loosen all the sediment and dirt. 
Now remove the plug and drain out the dirty kerosene. 
In some types of motors there are small troughs under each 
connecting rod. These would still be full of this dirty 
kerosene. In some cases the crank case can be removed 
easily, and washed out. In other cases the plugs should 
be left out after draining the kerosene. As the new oil is 
poured in the crank case, it will force the dirty kerosene 
out of the troughs. The instant the lubricating oil starts 
to run out of the drain plugs instead of the dirty kerosene, 
the plug can be replaced and the crank case filled with 
clean oil. 

Operation No. 21 

The clutch requires very little attention. If the leather 
faced cone clutch is used, the leather facing should be kept 
softened with neetsfoot oil. In some motors the oil can be 
applied with a feather or small brush, while in others a 
squirt gun must be used. Where the dry multiple disc 
clutch is used, it requires very little attention unless the 
clutch facings get gummed up. It is then advisable to bathe 
the clutch in kerosene. The clutch yokes or throwout 




A Checking System of Upkeep 


23 


collars and thrust bearings used on these types of clutches 
require lubricating. 'Refer to your instruction book and 
be sure they are getting the proper attention. Where the 
clutch runs in a bath of oil little attention is needed with 
the exception of replacing the oil. This can be done by 
removing the plug at the bottom of the clutch housing, 
replacing the plug, flushing with kerosene and refilling, 
or in cases where the clutch is lubricated from the motor 
the only attention required would be an occasional adjust¬ 
ment if the clutch slips. 

Operation No. 22 

Use an oil can to squirt oil on the clutch and foot brake 
shaft joints. The same method should be used for emer¬ 
gency brake rod joints, foot brake rod joints, and the brake 
cam shaft and joints. 

Operation No. 23 

See that the universal joints are well packed with grease. 
Where a plug is used a grease gun must be used and where 
grease cups are used, they should be filled and turned up 
several times. 

Operation No. 24 

Where the rear spring seats should be lubricated, fill the 
cups and turn until the grease oozes out of the joints and 
then wipe off with a cloth. 

Operation No. 25 

In most motors the timing gears use the same oiling 
system as the motor, but where the timing gear case is 
made separate from the crank case, the proper lubricant 
recommended by your instruction book should be added. 





Figure 3 
















A Checking System of Upkeep 


25 


Operation No. 26 

The alignment of the front wheels is a very important 
factor in the life of tires. To make steering easier, and 
the front tires wear evenly, the front wheels should be toed 
in. The amount of toe-in is adjusted by lengthening and 
shortening the tie rod which connects the steering arms. 
To adjust, remove the tie rod bolt from the steering 
knuckle, and slip the yoke off the arm. (See Fig. 3.) After 
loosening the clamp bolt, the yoke can be screwed on the 
tie rod to shorten, or screwed off to lengthen, as desired. 
The distance between the front part of the wheels and the 
back part of the wheels, on a level with the hub or center 
of the wheel and from the inside felloe to felloe should be 
5/16 of an inch. Be sure and take both measurements 
the same distance from the ground. This slight fore¬ 
gather overcomes a tendency of a wheel to turn outward 
and is what makes a car so easy to handle on a road. The 
front wheels are also dished, the distance between the top 
of the wheel and the bottom of the wheel is about two 
inches. This is done to relieve the strain on the steering 
knuckles. If the wheels were in a vertical position they 
would set on a line outside the knuckle and all the strain 
would be centered on the steering knuckles and their pins. 
The dishing of the wheels divides the strain between the 
knuckle and the wheel, so that the wheel bears its full 
portion of the load. 

Operation No. 27 

Be sure the spring clamp bolts are tight, 





26 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


Operation No. 28 


Operation No. 29 


Operation No. 30 


SERIES C— EVERY 1000 MILES 

Operation No. 31 

To properly lubricate the springs, first jack up the 
weight of the car from the springs, and then loosen the 
clamps that hold the spring- to the axle. By wedging a 
screw-driver between each leaf, and using a putty knife or 
case knife, a graphite paste can be inserted between the 
leaves. This paste should be made of lubricating oil and 
Dixon’s flake graphite. Be sure the clamps are tightened 
as this is the cause of many broken springs. If the spring 
leaves are rusty they should be dissembled and the rust 
removed with coarse emery cloth or polished on a buffing 
wheel in the shop. 

Operation No. 32 

Remove and clean the spark plugs. Be sure all the gaps 
are the same and proper width. As a general rule they 
should be about the thickness of a smooth dime. 

Operation No. 33 

Inspect platinum breaker points in your ignition unit, 
and if they are rough, pitted or burnt, they should be 






A Checking System of Upkeep 


27 


cleaned with a platinum point file, care being taken that 
the face of each point fits squarely against the other, and 
that the distance of the gap, when opened, is correct. These 
points are usually in an awkward place and a small pocket 
mirror will enable you to see what you are doing. If 
platinum points are used in your generator cut out, they 
should be cleaned in the same way. 

Operation No. 34 

Be sure the generator is charging at the proper rate. 
To test, turn on all the lights, and with your motor run¬ 
ning at a speed equal to fifteen miles an hour on a road, 
your ammeter should show a slight charge. This will prove 
that the charging rate of the generator is strong enough to 
overcome the discharge of the lights and slightly charge the 
battery. Have your garage man test the charging rate of 
your generator to be sure it is not overcharging, as this will 
heat your battery and in most cases, the armature of your 
generator. The dust cap of your generator should be removed, 
leaving access to the armature. With the motor running the 
armature should be cleaned with a soft cloth, moistened 
in gasoline, but if the armature is rough or pitted a piece 
of very fine sand paper, on the end of a soft pine stick 
should be used to smooth the armature. Never use emery 
paper. If sparking of the brushes occurs excessively, after 
the armature has been cleaned, see that the brush holders 
are in proper alignment. If this does not remedy the 
sparking, it is probably due to high mica between the 
commutator segments, and should be taken to a competent 
repair man to be remedied. 



28 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


Operation No. 35 

The dust cap from the starting motor should be removed, 
and the same method in cleaning the armature should be 
used as outlined to clean the generator armature. How¬ 
ever, the starting motor is not as delicate an instrument 
as the generator and seldom gives trouble. Be sure the 
terminals of the wires leading to the starting motor are 
tight, and that the brush springs hold the brushes firmly 
against the armature. 

Operation No. 36 

Fill the differential to the proper level. Too much 
lubricant in the differential will follow the axles through 
the wheel bearings into the brake drums, where it will 
cause the brakes to slip. 

Operation No. 37 

Be sure the transmission is filled with grease to the 
proper level. 

Operation No. 38 

Clean the sediment trap underneath the gas tank, if 
there is one. If vacuum tank is used, about a half pint of 
gasoline should be drained through the petcock at the 
bottom, which will clean the sediment. On most car¬ 
buretors there is a small sediment trap and strainer used, 
which should be cleaned. 

Operation No. 39 

Be sure the lugs that hold the rim of the tires on the 
wheels are tight, to prevent the rim from creeping. In 
placing the rim on the wheel, the lug opposite the valve 



29 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


stem should be tightened first. It should be tightened 
enough to hold the rim firmly against its seat on the back¬ 
side of the wheel. Next, tighten the lugs on either side of 
the valve stem, to the same tension. The wheel should 
next be rotated to be sure the rim is true. The other lugs 
can then be tightened, first one, on one side, and then on 
the other, and then all the lugs cinched, so that the rim 
doesn't creep on the wheel. 

Operation No. 40 

To adjust and equalize the brakes, both rear wheels 
should be jacked up. Have someone sit in the driver’s 
seat and apply the foot brake half way. The brakes should 
then be adjusted so that they just start to bind. Be sure 
that one side does not bind more than the other. Now with 
the foot brake pressed clear down, the rear wheels should 
be locked. The emergency brakes can be adjusted the same 
way. (See Fig. 4.) 

Operation No. 41 


SERIES D—EVERY 2,000 MILES 
Operation No. 42 

To remove the front wheels, jack up the axle and remove 
the hub cap, now remove the cotterpin from the locknut 
on the spindle, and remove the nut. (On most cars the 
right hand spindle has a left hand thread, and the left 
hand spindle has a right hand thread.) After removing 
the locknut and washer, and where ball bearings are used, 
the outside cone, slide the wheel from the spindle. 

Inspect the bearings and if they are in good shape wash 
with gasoline and repack with light grease. 










A Checking System of Upkeep 


30 







Figure 4 


Care must be taken in assembling and adjusting the 
wheel. Never adjust the wheel bearings so tight that the 
weight of the tire valve, if placed on the side, will not 
carry itself to the bottom, although there must be no end 
play in the bearings. After adjusting the wheel, to revolve 







A Checking System of Upkeep 


31 


freely, by grasping the top and bottom of the wheel, and 
pushing in and out, any side thrust can be felt. 

(Note —When steering knuckles are slightly worn, this 
play will sometimes be mistaken for play in the bearings 
of the front wheels.) Where the rear wheels run on bear¬ 
ings, the same method can be applied in adjusting, and 
where the wheel hub is tapered and keyed to the axle, the 
axle nut should be cinched to draw the hub tight on the 
taper. 

Operation No. 43 


To inspect the steering gear both front wheels should be 
jacked up. Be sure the steering bracket is tight to the 
frame of the car, and that the housing is full of grease. 
See that the steering arm is tight at its joint, and that there 
is no end play in the ball socket joints. 




Operation No. 44 


There has been quite a difference of opinion between 
automobile men in regard to proper mileage intervals to 
grind the valves. When the face of the valve becomes 
pitted, due to the chemical action of the heat and carbon 
on the face and seat of the valve, the valve should be 
ground, but many times they are ground, when they should 
only be cleaned and touched up. Every two thousand miles 
the valves should be removed, and the carbon scraped from 
them. The exhaust valves will require more attention than 
the intake valves, because they are in an open position 
when the burnt gasses are exhausted from the combustion 
chamber. The result is, carbon will form on the stem of 
the valve when in this open position, and when enough of 
it accumulates, it will act as a wedge to the proper closing 



























A Checking System of Upkeep 33 


of the valves. After the valve and valve seats have been 
cleaned of carbon, and the valve faces or seats are not 
pitted, they should be touched up with a little fine valve 
grinding compound. After wiping the compound from 
the valve and seat, they should be polished with oil, using 
the same movement as in grinding the valves. 

Operation No. 45 

The carbon should either be scraped by hand or burnt 
out with oxygen by a competent repair man. 

Operation No. 46 

After cleaning or grinding the valves, the valve tapets 
should be inspected and adjusted if necessary, and the com¬ 
pression of the motor tested by using the hand crank. 
Open all the petcocks but one. In this way the compression 
of each cylinder can be tested separately. 

Operation No. 47 

The speedometer shaft should be inspected, and to prop¬ 
erly lubricate, it should be removed from the cable, and 
smeared with a graphite paste made from Dixon’s motor 
graphite and vaseline. 

SERIES E—EVERY 5000 MILES 

Operation No. 48 

A thorough inspection of every part of the car should 
be made at this mileage interval, which includes Series 
A, B, C and E. While executing the various operations, 
every bolt and nut on the car should be inspected, and 
tightened if loose. 


> 

> 








34 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


Operation No. 49 

See that the fenders are tight on their brackets, and 
that the brackets are securely fastened. 

Operation No. 50 

See that the radiator base and stay rod are tight. 

Operation No. 51 

See that the windshield nuts are tight, and use a few 
drops of 3-in-l oil on the hinges. Use a few drops of 3-in-l 
oil on the top bow joints. See that the top saddles are 
tight. Use a few drops of 3-in-l oil on their hinges. 

Operation No. 52 

A drop or two of 3-in-l oil should be used on the friction 
surfaces of the different units that are on the instrument 
board, on the spark and gas hand levers, and on the foot 
accelerator joints. 

Operation No. 53 

Be sure the door hinges are tight. Use a few drops of 
3-in-l oil on the hinges and locks. 

Operation No. 54 

Be sure the license brackets are tight. 

Operation No. 55 

Inspect head, side, dash, and tail lights, and make sure 
they are tight and in proper working order. 

Operation No. 56 

Inspect wiring. Be sure all connections are tight. Be 
sure fuses fit tight in their sockets. 




35 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


Operation No. 57 

Be sure the dust pan is tight and doesn’t rattle. 

Operation No. 58 

Be sure the engine support bolts are tight, and that 
motor is not loose on the frame. 

Operation No. 59 

Be sure the hood clamp springs are not broken and if 
lacing is used, little thin strips of felt, cut from an old felt 
hat, can be inserted under the lacing and will prevent the 
hood from rattling. 

Operation No. 60 

If an oil pump is used, be sure the oil is circulating, 
and if a strainer is used, it should be removed and washed 
in gasoline. 

Operation No. 61 

It is a simple job to remove the muffler, and clean the 
soot, and is as essential as cleaning a stove pipe. See that 
the body bolts are tight, while you are under the car. 

Operation No. 62 

Rust, scale and lime form in the tiny cells of your radia¬ 
tor and your water jackets, and act as an insulation against 
proper heat radiation. This scale can be removed with 
sal soda. A heaping teacup of sal soda should be used to 
every two gallons of water that your radiator holds. For 
example: If your radiator capacity is four gallons, two 
heaping teacups of sal soda should be dissolved in four 
gallons of hot water. The radiator should be drained and 
this solution poured in. Extreme care must be taken not 








36 A Checking System of Upkeep 


to spill any of this solution on the painted surface of your 
car as it will ruin it. After the solution is added, the motor 
should be run for about a half-hour with the spark re¬ 
tarded, so the water will heat up. The car can be used 
on a short run while doing this. The solution should then 
be drained out and the radiator flushed with the garden 
hose several times before refilling with clean water. 

Operation No. 63 

The transmission and differential should be drained and 
flushed with coal oil and the lubricant replaced. The gears 
in these units are made from highly tempered steel, and 
when this steel wears, thin chips or slivers of steel scale 
from the gears. If these units are not thoroughly cleaned 
out, these tiny bits of steel work into the bearing surfaces, 
causing excessive wear. 

SERIES F—10,000 MILES. COMPLETE INSPECTION 

Operation No. 64 

If you have properly cared for your car when this mile¬ 
age interval is reached, and Series A, B, C, D and E 
have been done and checked, it should be running perfectly, 
but to keep it running that way the internal parts of your 
car should be dissembled and inspected by a competent 
repair man and your electrical instruments and carburetor 
thoroughly inspected and cleaned. 

Operation No. 65 

When the weather eats through the first coat of varnish 
and the lustre is gone, another coat of varnish will pre¬ 
serve the beauty and paint of your car. 









37 


A Checking Sys tem of Upkeep 
HISTORY OF YOUR CAR 


Name 

Model 

Serial No. of your Car 

Motor No. of your Car 


Date of Purchase 


RECORD OP ACCIDENTS 




























A Checking System of Upkeep 


39 





















A Checking System of Upkeep 



























MILES 

100 

200 

300 

400 

500 

600 

700 

800 

900 

1000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline- 

Oil.. 

Grease.-.— 

Tires .. 

Tire Repairs. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material. 

Washing . 

Miscellaneous.- 

Total. 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 


SERIES 



Gauftlinf .. _ . 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil_ 



Grease- 



Tires _ 



Tire Repairs _ 



Mechanical repairs_ 



Material-- 



Washing.. 



Miscellaneous- 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 
































































































'I 


























. 













































MILES 

2100 

2200 

2300 

2400 

2500 

2600 

2700 

2800 

2900 

3000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline- 

Oil--- 

Grease.. 

Tires. 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material---. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total - - 


Average cost per mile $ 

SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline.--- 

Oil.. 

Grease. 

Tires.-. 

Tire Repairs-. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total - - 


Dollars 


Cents 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 




















































































SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

5100 

5200 

5300 

5400 

5500 

5600 

5700 

5800 

5900 

6000 


SERIES 

B C D E F 



■ 

IP 

mp 

■ 

■ 

Wm 





■ 

Wm 



ppppj 

■ 

■ 

P 


11 

illiP 

wm. 


§1 

■ 



If 


HP 



HP 



■1 

jp 


■ 

iilf 

■ 





■ 

■ 

■ 

||p 


IP 

^nn 

'mth 


jJJ 

P 





mm 




Dollars Cents 



Oil_ 



Grease 

Tires_ 

- - -. 

. 

Tire Repairs - _ 



Mechanical repairs 

IWaterial _ 



Washing- 

Miscellaneous 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 























































































. 














SERIES 


MILES 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 


6100 



' 




Gasoline 

6200 







Oil__ 

6300 







Grease 

6400 







Tires 

6500 




- | - 

ilP 


Tire Repairs - 

6600 





-0 


Mechanical reoairs 

6700 






Sjjl 

Material 

6800 







Washing 

6900 







Miscellaneous 

7000 







Total 


Dollars 

Cents 























Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

7100 

7200 

7300 

7400 

7500 

7600 

7700 

7800 

7900 

8000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline.— 

Oil_ 

Grease ----- . 

Tires. 

Tire Repairs. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material.-. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous- 

Total - - 


Dollars 

Cents 







— 















Average cost per mile $ 


































































































\ 


























MILES 

8100 

8200 

8300 

8400 

8500 

8600 

8700 

8800 

8900 

9000 


SERIES 


A B C D E F 

Gasoline- 

Oil- 

Grease- 

Tires--- 

Tire Repairs--. 

Mechanical repairs- 

Material... 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total. 

Average cost per mile $. 



Dollars 


Cents 



MILES 

9100 

9200 

9300 

9400 

9500 

9600 

9700 

9800 

9900 

10000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline-- 

Oil- 

Grease ..-. 

Tires- 

Tire Repairs. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material-. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total - 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 
















































































)G>„ 

OOtGf 

o r or 

i .it: 

WO** 



SERIES 


MILES 


A B C D E F 


10100 
10200 
10300 
104 ) 
10 ) 
1 ) 
) 
) 
) 

. . i>0 



li sol i n p 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil_ 

Grease.. 

Tires-■-- 

Tire Repairs.. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material- 




Washing 



Miscellaneous 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 


SERIES 


A B C D E F 


MIL S 

1111 0 

112C0 

113C 0 

1140 3 

1150 ) 

1160 

11700 

11800 

11900 

12000 



Gasoline- 

Oil- 

Grease.-. 

Tires.. 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous- 

Total 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 
























































































■ 




































MILES 

12100 

12200 

12300 

12400 

12500 

12600 

12700 

12800 

12900 

13000 


SERIES 



Gasoline- 

Oil_ 

Grease--- 

Tires-- 

Tire Repairs_ _ 

Dollars 

Cents 

— 

. 


-- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material---. 

Washing. 


. 

Miscellaneous 

Total- 








Average cost per mile $-- 


MILES 

13100 

13200 

13300 

13400 

13500 

13600 

13700 

13800 

13900 

14000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline.. 

Oil- 

Grease ... 

Tires. 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material. 

Washing.- 

Miscellaneous- 

Total - - 


Dollars 

Cents 













• 











Average cost per mile $ 




























































































SERIES 

A B C D E F 



15000 


Gasoline- 

Oil_ 

Grease- 

Tires.. 

Tire Repairs--. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material---.- - 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total - - 


Dollars Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

15100 

15200 

15300 

15400 

15500 

15600 

15700 

15800 

15900 

16000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 




Dollars 

Cents 

• 


Oil_ 



Grease- 

Tires_ 





Tire Repair**-. 



IWer.hanir.al repair*; 



Material- _ 



Washing- 



Miscellaneous- 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 


















































































MILES 

16100 

16200 

16300 

16400 

16500 

16600 

16700 

16800 

16900 

17000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 





ijj 

—ppl.. 

id 



jjjfj 



ppp 





lljp 

^llj 





ijp 

ppp 



IJj 

Ip! 






llllp 


jpl 




II 

ilp 

®p 



ppp 

lip 


JJJ 



llljl 

HP 


imt 






ilp 



Gasoline. 

Oil---- 

Grease. 

Tires-— 

Tire Repairs.- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material-. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total 


Dollars 

Cents 







— 

. 














Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

17100 

17200 

17300 

17400 

17500 

17600 

17700 

17800 

17900 

18000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 




Dollars 

Cents 



O d o U11 *1C*"”- 

Oil__ 



Grease_- - 



Tires_ _ 



Tire Reoairs_ 






ITAVvllUllavdl * V^^Clll O ■ 

MaIph^ 1_ 



Washing- 



Miscellaneous- 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 





















































































SERIES 


MILES 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 


Dollars 

Cents 

18100 





j > 

l||P 

Gasoline 



18200 





gj|f§ 

pip 

Oil_ 



18300 





lidP 


Grease 



18400 







Tires. 



18500 







Tire Repairs- 



18600 





iiUP 

||p| 

Mechanical repairs 



18700 





iiP 


Material 



18800 





lUP 

||j|| 

Washing - 



18900 




lUpi 

Up! 


Miscellaneous 



19000 







Total 




Average cost per mile $ - 


SERIES 


MILES 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 

19100 


B 

■ 

u 

m 

III!! 

19200 


Mil 

m 





19300 


llll 




■ 

19400 


K 


JJ 

m 


19500 




illl 


111 

19600 


■ 

■ 

■ 

■ 

■ 

19700 


Hi 

n 



1 

1 

19800 


■ 

■ 

1 

■ 

■ 

■ 

19900 


■ 

1 

■ 

■ 

1 

20000 






1 


Gasoline.. 

Oil__ 

Grease.. 

Tires. 

Tire Repairs. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material-- 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous.- 

Total -- 


Dollars 

Cents 























Average cost per mile $_ 



















































































































MILES 

20100 

20200 

20300 

20400 

20500 

20600 

20700 

20800 

20900 

21000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 




jjlj 

lllll 


|jP 




i||lp 

" 

jp 


BP 



|HP 

||Jp 



iup 

tt|p 


jp 





jjj 

lljjl 


dP 


jfjp 


lllpl 






(U 


jH! 


gjjp 


ppp 


HP 


IgP 






(H 

|| 

H 


Im o.<s n 1 1 n o _ 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil_ 

Grease 

Tires 

Tire Repairs_- 

. 

. 

— 


Mechanical repairs 



Material 



Washing 

Miscellaneous. 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 


SERIES 


MILES 

A 

B 

c 

D 

E 

F 


21100 


■ 

hhp 



If 

Gasoline.. 

21200 


■ 


■ 



Oil- 

21300 


11 



llfpf 

ll 

Grease 

21400 





p 

■ 

Tires-- 

21500 



■ 



■ 

Tire Repairs--. 

21600 


IP 

jjl 



i 

Mechanical repairs 

21700 

( 

i 

u 



mu 

Material —. 

21800 

f 



jj| 

■ 

■ 

Washing- 

21900 


sllll 

■ 

■ 


Pf 

Miscellaneous- 

22000 

_ 




d 

W 

Total 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 

























































































MILES 

22100 

22200 

22300 

22400 

22500 

22600 

22700 

22800 

22900 

23000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline 

Oil_ 

Grease 

Tires 

Tire Repairs - 
Mechanical repairs 

Material-- 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous 

Total 


Dollars 


Cents 


I 


Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

23100 

23200 

23300 

23400 

23500 

23600 

23700 

23800 

23900 

24000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 


'■* 

IIP 

| 

jjjjjp 


iiHi 

HP 

Ip 



wm. 

WmmM 

Hr 


Wm 

m 




UN■ 



wk 

mk 

Wmk 



wm 

wk 

0k wm. 

lijjl11 


m 

Wm, 

Wmm 

mm. 



Wm 

wm 

■ill 

|l||||||p 

WMm. 




wfk 


Oasolinp . _ - 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil- 

Grease 

Tires- 






Tire Repairs - _ 



Mechanical repairs 



Material_ 



Washing. 



Miscellaneous 

Total 








Average cost per mile $-- 
























































































MILES 

24100 

24200 

24300 

24400 

24500 

24600 

24700 

24800 

24900 

25000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



ll a ft n 1 inp 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil- 

Grease 

T ires_ 







Tire Repairs_ -- 



Mechanical repairs. . . . 



Material_ 



Washing- 



Miscellaneous- 

Total. 








Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

25100 

25200 

25300 

25400 

25500 

25600 

25700 

25800 

25900 

26000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



JJp 

■ 

HP 

m 

mm 

WB 

id! 


jj 

0 

WM 

wm 


m 

Wm. 


HP 


Hi 

Wm 

m 

u 


mm 

m 

■ 

■ 

1 

■ 



j§l 

i 

m 

■ 

Wm 


i 

IP 

nm 

imp 

mu 

WB 

IK 


1 

1 

Up 

wm 

m 



jp 

||Pp 

'wB:, 

Ilf 


mi 


mm 

d 

P 






m 


Gasoline- 

Oil- 

Grease-- 

Tires.-. 

Tire Repairs-. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material.. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous.- 

Total -- 


Dollars 


Cents 




Average cost per mile $ 




















































































MILES 

26100 

26200 

26300 

26400 

26500 

26600 

26700 

26800 

26900 

27000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 

Gasoline 

Oil- 

Grease -- 
Tires- 

Tire Repairs . 

Mechanical repairs 

Material-. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total 



Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

27100 

27200 

27300 

27400 

27500 

27600 

27700 

27800 

27900 

28000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



HHP; 

wm 

JJ1 

imp 

ill 

iiii 

M 

Ip 

§1 


g||p 

pf 

m 

H 

ill 

B 


mu 

PR 

wm 

w/m 


mm* 

li 

i 


m 

§§ 

p 






IHHp 

lllll 

fH§§ 

fill 

■ 

HIP 


u® 

'Wk 

■ 

fill 

■ 


1 

■ 


f§ 

pll 


IU 

Wm 

mm 

i 

ill 

P 

L 

mil 

m 

mm 

——— 

■ 

imp 

f 

H 

iitl 


Gasoline- 

Oil--- 

Grease.. 

Tires-- 

Tire Repairs-. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material.--- 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous- 

Total 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 











































































































MILES 

28100 

28200 

28300 

28400 

28500 

28600 

28700 

28800 

28900 

29000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 




p 


gpj 

||p 





jjP 

||J| 











gpl 




iijp 



00 ^ 


jjp 

gijii 

jjp 

||jp 

jjjj 



iipi 

iip 





iijp 


jjj| 



il 

ji 


|jj 






|| 



Gasoline- 

Oil_ 

Grease-- 

Tires... 

Tire Repairs. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total 


Dollars 

Cents 









'---- 

----- 








Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

29100 

29200 

29300 

29400 

29500 

29600 

29700 

29800 

29900 

30000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline— 

Oil- 

Grease. 

Tires.- 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material. 

Washing.. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total - - 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 






















































































•• 



. 










. 












. 


. 




MILES 

30100 

30200 

30300 

30400 

30500 

30600 

30700 

30800 

30900 

31000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



C, a Qnlinp _ _ 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil_ 



Grease- 

Tires ___ 





Tire Repairs.. 



/ 

Mechanical repairs 

Material — _ 





Washing . 



Miscellaneous 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

31100 

31200 

31300 

31400 

31500 

31600 

31700 

31800 

31900 

32000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline- 

Oil- 

Grease.-.- 

Tires.- 

Tire Repairs.. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material.-. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous.- 

Total - 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 












































































































SERIES 






A 

B 

c 

D 

E 

F 


Dollars 

Cents 

MILES 

32100 


mil 





Gasoline- - - 



32200 


ijp 





Oil- 



32300 







Grease- 



32400 







Tires- 



32500 







Tire Repairs- - 



32600 




- 



Mechanical repairs - 



32700 



mjifi 

jjp 

Ijp 


Material 



32800 



(HP 

■ 



Washing__ 



32900 




jjp 



Miscellaneous _ . 



33000 




IIP 

|||||| 


Total 




Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

33100 

33200 

33300 

33400 

33500 

33600 

33700 

33800 

33900 

34000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 




Dollars 

Cents 



vJ 1 d o UTTTrC • — * 

Oil_ 



Grease.-. 

Tires _ _ 














_ _ 

Washing_ 



Miscellaneous- 

Total. 







Average cost per mile $ 



















































































































SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline.. 

Oil.— 

Grease. 

Tires.. 

i 

Tire Repairs--. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material--. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total 


I 

Dollars Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline- 

Oil.— -.- 

Grease-- 

Tires .. 

Tire Rep airs -. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material--. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total - - 


Dollars 

Cents 














• 

















































































MILES 

36100 

36200 

36300 

36400 

36500 

36600 

36700 

36800 

36900 

37000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline- 

Oil_ 

Grease.-. 

Tires- 

Tire Repairs. 

* 

Mechanical repairs 

Material. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous . 

Total. 


Dollars 

Cents 



. 

. 


















Average cost per mile $ 


SERIES 


MILES 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 


37100 

f 

■ 

Up 

■ 

H!l 

■B 

■ 

Gasoline-. 

37200 


mk 

jp 

■ 

■ 

1 

Oil- 

37300 





■ 

0 

Grease- 

37400 



1 

1 

i||fl 

pi 

Tires. 

37500 



1 

p 

PlU 

|||| 

Tire Repairs-. 

37600 



lilp 

jp 

p||p 

i 

Ip 

Mechanical repairs 

37700 


m 

wm 

Wm 


• 


Material. 

37800 



m 


imi 

p 

■ 

pPp 

Washing. 

37900 


Ml 

m 

m 


■ 

Miscellaneous- 

38000 





!Kj 

■ 

i Total 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 





















































































MILES 

38100 

38200 

38300 

38400 

38500 

38600 

33700 

38800 

38900 

39000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline- 

Oil- 

Grease. 

Tires 

Tire Repairs--. 

Mechanical repairs 

Material- 

Wash ing.. 

Miscellaneous 

Total 


Dollars 

Cents 






















Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

39100 

39200 

39300 

39400 

39500 

39600 

39700 

39800 

39900 

40000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline 

Oil- 

Grease.. 

Tires.. 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material.- 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous 

Total 


Dollars Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 





















































































I 


MILES 

40100 

40200 

10300 

10400 

10500 

40600 

40700 

40800 

40900 

41000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



IP 




|||p 






g||^ 











jjjj 







mil 


; ' ' 

IjP 

iip 

111 



jjj 

ilHP 

jHH 

HHP 

- 


ft 

sup 

flip 

llll 

ii 

iflfl 


ill 




III 






- 


(i A soling 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil 



Grease- 

Tires 





Tire Repairs_ 



Mechanical repairs 

Material-- 





Washing- 



Miscellaneous 



Total 






Average cost per mile $. 


MILES 

41100 

41200 

41300 

41400 

41500 

41600 

41700 

41800 

41900 

42000 


SERIES 

B C D E 



wm 

n 

mi 

mn^ 

mu 

n 


I! 

ill 

||§| 

ii 

i! 

Uj 


■ 

Ijp 

mil 

i 

iiip 

pl 


n 

iiip 

i§§ 

ip 

■ 




il 

i 

■ 



■ 

■ 

■ 

iiiip 

jf| 


■ 


1 

TO 

ft 


■ 

■ 

if 


■ 


IP 

i 

iii 

ill 


■ 





IN 

■ 


Gasoline- 

Oil- 

Grease- 

Tires... 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material. 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous. 

Total - - 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $... 




















































































































' 














































MILES 

42100 

42200 

42300 

42400 

42500 

42600 

42700 

42800 

42900 

43000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



snI ine. -._ _ 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil__ 



Grease - - 

Tires - 


— 


Tire Repairs - - 



Mechanical repairs-_ 



Material.-. 

Washing --------- 

. 

-.- 

Miscellaneous. 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 


SERIES 


MILES 

A 

B 

c 

D 

E 

F 

43100 


■ 

H 

■p 

iittP 

■ 

Iggi 

■ 

43200 


IIP 

n 

| 

IRpP' 

■ 

PH 

43300 


up 

H 

p 

liiSI 

. -;. - X ■ 


i|||| 

gfnn 

43400 


■ 

mi 

jjl 

llli 

ili 

IIP 

111 

43500 



p 

■ 

1 

■ 

43600 


■ 

iip 

HP 

fl 

■ 

■ 

43700 


■ 


8^ 

■ 

pp 

43800 


gpsp 

■ 

m 


H|p 

Jjj 

43900 


1 

i 

jJJ 

ill 

mk 

44000 





lip 

HI 

wk 



Dollars 

Cents 



Oil_ 



Grease. 

Tires_ 




Tire Repairs_ 



Merhaniral renairs_ 



IVTaterial_ . _ 



^/ashing-- 



Miscellaneous- 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 









































































































SERIES 


MILES 


A B C D E F 


44100 

44200 

44300 

44400 

44500 

44600 

44700 

44800 

44900 

45000 



Gasoline.. 

Oil- 

Grease- 

Tires- 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material- 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous _ 

Total 


Dollars Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 


SERIES . 


A B C D E F 


MILES 

45100 

45200 

45300 

45400 

45500 

45600 

45700 

45800 

45900 

46000 




Dollars 

Cents 



Vj doUline - ■ • • 

Oil 



Grease .. 

Tires - 





Tire Reoairs 






MAt^rial.. _ 



Washing- 



Miscellaneous 

Total 








Average cost per mile $ 











































































































. 









































. 


















MILES 

46100 

46200 

46300 

46400 

46500 

46600 

46700 

46800 

46900 

47000 


SERIES 



ft asnlinp _ 

Dollars 

Cents 



Oil_ 

Grease- 

Tires_ 







Tire Repairs_ 



Mechanical repairs_ 



Material.. 



Washing- 



Miscellaneous- 

Total- 







Average cost per mile $ 


SERIES 


MILES 

A 

B 

c 

D 

E 

F 

47100 


§§ 

■ 

mmz 

gjl 


47200 


mm 

m 

wk 

H 

mm. 

■ 

47300 


ip 

mm 

Warn 

47400 


IIP 

mm 

Hm 

Wk 

mm?. 

i 

47500 



jp 

■ 

wm 

||||P 

47600 


m 

mm 

f 

ft 

J§ 

■1 

47700 


■ 


jjjl 


II 

47800 


1 

i! 

■ 

H 


47900 



mm 

■ 

ccartM 

If 

48000 

u 




Wm 

wm 

mk 



Dollars 

Cents 



VjuOUllllC 

Oil ... 



Grease- 





Tire Repairs_ 






MatpriA I __ 



Washing- -.- 



Miscellaneous- 

Total--- 








Average cost per mile $ 



































































































• j 


' 




I 







MILES 

48100 

48200 

48300 

48400 

48500 

48600 

48700 

48800 

48900 

49000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



Gasoline 

Oil_ 

Grease- 

Tires 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 

Material.. 

Washing- 

Miscellaneous 

Total 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 


MILES 

49100 

49200 

49300 

49400 

49500 

49600 

49700 

49800 

49900 

50000 


SERIES 

A B C D E F 



■ 

n 

ifll 

■ 

Up 

IHH 

■ 


I* s 

lll| 

■ 

fill 

111 

■ 


I® 

■ 

■ 

§■1 

■ 

■ 

1 


jSsssssxsss 

111§ 

sssssssssss 

f|f§| 


1 

■ 



■ 

HH! 

ill 

■1 

■ 

■ 

|i| 



n 

H 

■ 

fill 

■ 



|||| 

111 

llll 

■ 

I ||| 


■ 

■ 

iHH 

■ 

§11§ 

■ 

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■ 


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■ 








Gasoline- 

Oil-- 

Grease- 

Tires 

Tire Repairs- 

Mechanical repairs 
Material 

Washing. 

Miscellaneous 

Total 


Dollars 


Cents 


Average cost per mile $ 









































































































. 

. 
































A Checking System of Upkeep 


93 


THE FORD CAR 

Due to the simplicity in design of construction of the Ford 
Car, there are some operations under each series that should 
be canceled. 

Series A should consist of Operations 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 
and 8. 

Series B should consist of Operations 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 
20, 21, 22, 23, 26 and 27. 

Series C should consist of Operations 31, 32, 33, 36, 38, 40. 

Series D should consist of Operations 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 
and 47. 

Series E should consist of Operations 48, 49, 50, 51, 53, 54, 
55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 61, 62 and 63. 

Series F should consist of Operations 64 and 65. Under 
Series A, Operation No. 8 is left blank, and the outside rear 
axle roller bearing grease cups should have two complete 
turns at this mileage interval. 

Under Series B, Operation No. 12, the steering connecting 
rod ball joints have no grease cups or are not packed with 
grease, but a few drops of oil should be squirted with an oil 
can in each joint. 

Operation No. 14 calls for lubricating of the ignition unit. 
The Ford Car uses vibrating oils on the dash that require no 
lubricant, but the timer shell should be cleaned out with 
gasoline and at least a tablespoonfull of light machine oil 
added at this mileage interval. The timer roller revolves at 
a high rate of speed and is held in contact against the shell 







94 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


by a light spring. The use of heavy oil, especially in cold 
weather, will prevent proper spring action of the roller 
against the shell, causing missing and making the car hard 
to start. Either Three-in-One oil or a mixture of half 
kerosene and engine oil should be used. 

Operations Nos. 15, 16 and 18 should be canceled unless 
your car is equipped with a starter, generator, and battery. 

While executing Operation No. 20, when draining out 
the dirty kerosene, the front axle should be jacked up about 
one foot from the ground. This will spill most of the dirty 
kerosene out of the troughs under the connecting rods, and 
when the new oil is poured in it will force the remaining 
dirty kerosene out. 

Operation No. 21 calls for lubricating and adjusting the 
clutch. The clutch and transmission run in a bath of oil 
and the only attention required is an adjustment. 

Operations Nos. 34 and 35 should be canceled unless your 
car is equipped with electric starter or generator. 

Under Operation .No. 40, while adjusting the brakes with 
the rear wheels jacked up, the hand or emergency brake 
should not start to bind until the hand lever is two inches 
past the neutral point. The foot brake, low speed, and 
reverse pedals should be adjusted so that they start to bind 
half way down. 

Under Operation No. 43, while inspecting the steering 
gear, the steering wheel should be removed and the housing 
that holds the post gears should be packed with a good 
medium cup grease. 



A Checking System of Upkeep 


95 


LUBRICATION 

Lubrication of metal is a simple process where there is 
not heat to contend with. For example: All grease caps, 
differential, transmission and bearings outside the motor, 
require only an application of oil or grease. The only 
element to destroy proper lubrication is foreign substances, 
such as dirt, sand, mud, and heat, due to slight friction, 
which proper lubricant will overcome. Proper lubrication 
of your motor has been a difficult and different problem, 
due to the duties the oil has to perform, and to the element 
that tends to destroy the quality of the oil. 

When gasoline motors were first invented, the biggest 
problem was to keep the metal moving parts in the motor 
lubricated, and until a cooling system was discovered, the 
gasoline motor was a failure. The power developed by a 
gasoline motor is the pressure from “heat expansion,” 
caused by the explosion of compressed gases in the com¬ 
bustion chamber. If a cooling system were not used, this 
terrific heat would cause the metal parts of the motor to 
become red hot, and burn or destroy the lubricating oil, 
which is a thin film of substance between the metal bearing 
surfaces, to prevent one part from touching the other. 
Nearly eighty per cent of this heat expansion, or power 
that your motor really develops, is sacrificed. About forty 
per cent of this heat is lost or absorbed in the cooling- 
system, and thirty per cent escapes through the exhaust 
valve, when it opens to let out the burnt gases. The other 
ten per cent of power is lost in friction and air resistance. 
Summing up what we have just said, goes to show what 
an important factor proper cooling of the gasoline motor 






96 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


is, and its relation.to proper lubrication of the motor. As 
long as the body and quality of the oil holds up, under the 
intense heat that the motor develops, it acts as a barrier 
against any friction of the moving parts of the motor. 
The oil has another important duty to perform, for it acts 
as a seal to close up what small space there is between the 
piston and cylinder walls. As long as the oil seals this 
space we get compression which is so essential to obtain 
power. 

You will notice when you fill your empty crank case with 
new oil, that it has a clear color, but if you were to drain 
this oil in a day or so, you would find that it had turned 
black. This is natural, due to the chemical action in the 
oil and is caused by certain elements being changed to 
sediment from the heat of the motor. Carbon is the base 
of oils, and in time, intense heat will turn the oil to carbon 
and break down the body of the oil. As soon as the body 
of the oil breaks down, it does not act as a seal between the 
cylinder and piston walls. This will result in loss of com¬ 
pression and some of the gasoline vapor that should be 
compressed on the compression stroke of the piston will 
escape through this broken down seal of space into the 
crank case where it is condensed into gasoline and thins 
the oil. 

The longer you run, the thinner the oil will get. When 
you add a quart or so of new oil, the thin oil will find its 
way up through the space that should be sealed with good 
oil, into the combustion chambers where it is burnt and 
forms carbon. If the main body of oil in the crank case 
is of the proper quality, the fresh oil that is added daily 




A Checking System, of Upkeep 


97 


will not be wasted because the main body of oil has kept 
the compression space sealed. 

The first step toward proper lubrication is to use the 
best oil. The next step is to change it when it loses its 
body or quality, and the last step is to guard against the 
over-heating of the motor that destroys the lubricating 
qualities of the oil. 

We have done considerable experimenting, and a record 
of our tests shows that it is advisable to change the oil 
every 500 miles. If you will use our system of upkeep, your 
motor will not heat up from the following causes, and if you 
will install one of Boyce’s motor meters on your radiator, 
you can tell the temperature of your motor at a glance. 


REASONS FOR OVERHEATING THE MOTOR 

1. Not enough water in the radiator. (See Operation 

No. 3.) 

2. Rust, scale and lime in the water jackets, and in the 

tiny cells of your radiator, forming an insulation 
against proper heat radiation. (See Operation No. 
62.) 

3. If the fan blades are not bent at the proper angle, and 

the fan is not driven at the proper speed, water in 
your radiator will not be properly cooled. (See 
Operation No. 13.) 







A Checking System of Upkeep 


98 


4. If soot is allowed to collect on the muffler walls it 

will clog them up and cause a back pressure of the 
exhaust gases, not only heating the motor, but with 
a loss of power, due to the burnt gases not being 
able to escape. (See Operation No. 61) 

5. If you drive your car with a retarded spark, the area 

of combustion chambers is enlarged, or the space, 
in which the explosion takes place, is enlarged be¬ 
cause the piston is traveling on its downward stroke, 
instead of being at exact top center, where it should 
be when the explosion has reached its greatest pres¬ 
sure, resulting in a loss of power and excessive heat. 
By advancing the spark, it ignites the gas before 
the piston comes to the top, with the result that the 
gasoline has had time to ignite properly and has 
reached its greatest pressure with the piston at the 
top center. 

6. Your carburetor mixes the proper proportions of air 

with gasoline (about twenty parts of air to one 
part of gasoline. Oxygen is required to burn any¬ 
thing. For example: A stove will not burn unless 
air is sucked in through a draught. It is the oxygen 
in the air that is used, and the carburetor should 
admit enough oxygen or air to properly burn the 
gasoline. A lean mixture means just enough air 
to make the gasoline combustible, and a rich mixture 
leaves a deposit of soot in the combustion chambers, 
causing the motor to overheat, and giving a sluggish 
explosion. 



A Checking System of Upkeep 


99 


7. If the carbon is not removed from the combustion 

chambers, it will turn red hot, and not only heat 
up the motor, but cause pre-ignition, or explode the 
gasoline mixture before the electricity gets a chance 
to. (See Operation No. 19.) 

8. Not enough or a poor quality of oil in the crank case 

caused by being thinned with gasoline and being 
turned to carbon and sediment by heat of the motor, 
will cause friction, and heat the motor. (See Opera¬ 
tion No. 20.) 

9. Overtaxing the motor by overloading the car, or by 

letting the brakes drag will heat the motor quickly. 

10. Mud between the tubes or cells of your radiator will 

prevent proper air circulation and should be washed 
with a hose. Direct the stream from the inside to 
outside of the radiator. 

11. Excessive priming of your motor, allowing raw gas 

being sucked into the combustion chambers of your 
motor, will wash the thin film of oil from the cyl¬ 
inder walls and before the lubricating system gets 
a chance to splash new oil on the cylinder walls, 
sealing the compression space, the raw gas and gaso¬ 
line vapor escapes into the crank case and thins the 
oil. 









100 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


ELECTRICITY 

In order to become familiar with the electrical equip¬ 
ment of your car, it is necessary first to learn some of the 
fundamental principles of electricity. 

Just what electricity, magnetism or gravity really is, 
has never been discovered, but we know certain rules that 
govern them. 

We don’t know why, when we throw a stone in the air it 
will come down; why electricity makes magnetism, why 
magnetism makes electricity, or why the action of cer¬ 
tain chemicals on certain metals makes electricity, but we 
know certain rules that govern all these elements. 

Magnetism and electricity are closely related, as one 
will produce the other, and the principle of electric motors 
and generators is based on these facts. 

In order to get a clear understanding of what we mean 
when we say magnetism and electricity will make one the 
other, try the following experiment: 

Take four dry-cell batteries and connect them in series. 
Take a bundle of wires about seven inches long and make 
the bundle one inch in diameter (hair pins will do). 
Around the bundle wrap one thickness of paper and tie 
the ends with string. Now take a piece of lamp cord or 
magnet wire about six feet long. Leave an end two feet 
long and wrap the wire closely together in a coil around 
the bundle of wires, leaving about two feet free at the 
other end. If you attach one end of the wire to the positive 
pole of the battery and the other end to the negative pole of 
the battery, the current flowing through the wire will make 
a magnet of the bundle of wires. 






A Checking System of Upkeep 


101 


This will prove to you that electricity will make magnet¬ 
ism. Magnetism will penetrate anything. To prove this, 
take a handful 1 of iron shavings and sprinkle them on a 
sheet of paper. Now, hold the magnet under the paper and 
move, noting the peculiar arrangement of the iron shavings. 

Now, to prove that magnetism will make electricity, take 
about six feet more of insulated wire—the same as you 
used on the first coil, or finer wire is better, and wrap 
closely over the other coil of wire that you wrapped on the 
bundle, leaving about a foot on each end. Now, if you 
will have someone scrape the ends of this second winding 
together while you connect and disconnect quickly, one 
end of the wire of the first coil that is attached to the 
batteries, a spark will occur at the points of the second 
coil of wire, although it is insulated from the first coil of 
wire. 

This current of electricity produced in the second coil is 
done by what we call magnetic induction, and is the same 
principle that is used to produce a high tension or a high 
voltage of current at your spark plug. 

Breaker points in your ignition unit when they open and 
close, cause a current to flow in the secondary windings 
and to the spark plugs using the same principle as you used 
in your experiment by connecting and disconnecting one 
end of the first coil of wire to the batteries. 

Instead of one coil of wire for the second winding as you 
used, the coil in your car is composed of hundreds of feet 
of tiny wire about the thickness of a hair that is insulated, 
and when the current is interrupted in your ignition unit, 
this causes by a magnetic induction, a high pressure of 





102 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


current to be built up in the secondary windings. While 
the voltage at your battery is usually six or twelve volts 
by magnetic induction caused from interrupting the cur¬ 
rent and inducing an electric current in the secondary 
windings of your coil, you obtain approximately 10,000 
volts at the spark plug. To make this plainer, compare it 
with the garden hose. If you take the nozzle from the hose 
and allow the water to flow, there is not much force, but if 
you hold your thumb over the end of the hose a great 
pressure is built up in the hose, and by moving your 
thumb a little tiny stream will be forced a great distance, 
just as the voltage built up in the secondary windings in 
the coil of your car has force enough to cause the elec¬ 
tricity to jump the air gap in your spark plug. 

To cause any current of electricity to flow, you must 
first make a path for it to flow in, then a circuit must be 
made, that is, the current will flow through the path you 
have made only if the circuit is complete, or if the path 
leads from the source of the current back again to where 
it was produced. To prove that, lay your coil that you 
have just made on a piece of metal on a table—a sheet of 
copper, or brass is better. Now, hold one end of your sec¬ 
ondary winding firmly on the metal and while someone 
interrupts the primary winding you scratch the metal with 
the other end of the secondary winding. You will find that 
the current has passed through the metal back again to the 
other end of the coil wire. When you ground one end of 
the current source (of which there are always two) to any 
metal, such as the frame of a car, or in case of a telephone 
to the ground, the current will pass through that ground 





103 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


back to its source after it has done its work, such as light 
a light, or ring a bell. That system of completing a circuit 
is called a one-wire system, while a two-wire system means 
that the current is taken from the source back to the source, 
through insulated wires. 

The source of a current or where it flows out of a genera¬ 
tor, coil, or a battery is usually called the positive terminal, 
and where it comes back or returns to its source, it is 
usually called the negative terminal. If you wanted to 
determine the terminals and they were not marked, take a 
glass of water and dissolve four tablespoonfulls of salt in 
it. Now take the two ends of your wires leading from the 
source of the current and hold them one-quarter of an inch 
apart. The current will pass through the water if you dip 
the ends of the wire into the glass, completing the circuit, 
but bubbles will form on the bare end of the negative wire 
and, of course, the other wire is the positive wire. Ter¬ 
minals are marked pos or + for positive and the other neg 
or — for negative. 

It should be clear to you now that current will flow if 
there is a path for it to flow in, whether it is an insulated 
wire to ground, and through ground to another insulated 
wire and back to source, or just through two insulated 
wires back to source. Anything that will conduct elec¬ 
tricity, such as copper, brass, iron, water, or ground, is 
called a conductor and is used to make a path for the cur¬ 
rent to flow, while anything that will obstruct the flow of 
the current, such as glass, fibre, rubber, paper, cloth, or air, 
is called a non-conductor or insulator of current. 







104 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


If you build a tank for water upon a building and fill 
it with water for fire protection, you measure the amount 
of water by gallons, the amount that flows by pounds, and 
the conductor or pipes that form walls or resistance against 
it all flowing at once, you would measure in inches. 

If you build a big or little generator or battery to pro¬ 
duce a current of electricity, you would call the amount 
that it produced or the pressure, so many volts, and the 
amount that really flowed from the source you would call 
amperes, and the conductor or wires with their insulation, 
you would call resistance or ohms. So while you call water 
by pounds, gallons, and pipes, you call electricity by volts, 
amperes and ohms. One gallon of water in a tank, flowing 
through an inch pipe,, at the rate of one pound a minute, 
would have a certain force, and we call it force, while one 
volt of electricity, flowing at the rate of one ampere, with 
a resistance of one ohm, we call a watt, and it takes 746 
watts to make one horse power. One horse power is equal 
to 33,000 pounds lifted one foot in one minute. 

The difference between water and electricity as I have 
compared them, is that the water does not have to go back 
to its source, while the electricity does, and the water will 
get there if you open a valve as soon as gravity will let it, 
while the instant you close a switch and form a circuit for 
electric current, it has flowed and will continue to flow as 
long as the source is not exhausted. 

To obtain a large amount of water from a tank in a 
hurry, you must use a large pipe, while to obtain a large 
amount of current from a source of current, you must use 
a large wire because it offers the least resistance, such as 







A Checking System of Upkeep 


105 


the wires that lead from the battery to the starting motor 
of an automobile, and deliver a large amount of current, 
although a small wire would get the current there instantly 
and have no advantage over the big wire relative to speed, 
the big wire would deliver the volume. After getting these 
rules clear in your mind, take up each electric instrument, 
one at a time, and study first their principle and then their 
different functions. 

Your generator turns mechanical power into electrical 
energy. This electrical energy charges your battery. Your 
battery furnishes electric current for starting, lighting, 
horn, and where magneto is not used, for ignition. 

Your battery does not contain electricity, but the chem¬ 
ical action of the chemical solution on the metal plates of 
your battery produce an electric current. When you 
charge your battery you get a reversal of this chemical 
action and the charging current passing through your bat¬ 
tery changes crystals of chemicals back into liquid form. 

“BE SURE AND DON’TS” 

1. Don’t start on a trip unless the work outlined in your 

system has been done. 

2. Be sure it is checked, if you are sure it has been done. 

3. Be sure you have an extra pair of headlight globes in 

your car, also extra fuses. 

4. Don’t let the water in your radiator boil, or reach a 

temperature of over a hundred and seventy degrees. 

5. Be sure your shifting lever is in neutral position, be¬ 

fore starting the car. 




106 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


6. Don’t use your electric starting motor to move the car 

under any consideration. 

7. Be sure to disengage the clutch before you use the 

starter, especially in cold weather, when the grease 
in the transmission is hard, as this only adds to the 
load your motor has to carry. 

8. Don’t use your starting motor excessively, as it takes 

about thirty minutes to replenish the battery with 
the energy used by the starter in thirty seconds. 

9. Be sure and burn the lights for several hours on a 

long trip if your battery was fully charged when 
you started, as excessive charging will overheat the 
battery. This can be determined by feeling the lead 
straps on the top of the battery to see if they are 
warm. 

10. Don't use your foot brake continually when descend¬ 

ing a long hill. By using the emergency brake and 
compression of the motor, you can give the foot 
' brake a rest. 

11. Be sure and retard the spark before starting the 

motor. 

12. Don’t run your car faster than twenty-five miles an 

hour, if the car is new, or has just been overhauled. 

13. Don't use your brakes to stop the car unless your 

clutch is disengaged. 

14. Don’t prime your motor any more than is necessary. 

Raw gas in the combustion chambers thins the oil 
on the cylinder walls. 





A Checking System of Upkeep 107 


15. Don't race the motor without a load. 

16. Don't attempt to change gears with the clutch en¬ 

gaged. 

17. Don't fail to release the emergency brake before at¬ 

tempting to start the car. 

18. Don’t start the car with a jerk. If the clutch grabs, 

“tease'’ it until it can be remedied. 

19. Don't change to reverse gear, unless you bring the 

car to a dead stop. 

20. Don’t jump at conclusions. “Safety First.” 

21. Don't apply the brakes when the car starts to skid. 

22. Don’t allow your car to stand any length of time with 

your ammeter showing a discharge, and your igni¬ 
tion and light switches off. Jar the dash board with 
your list to be sure the needle isn’t stuck. If this 
doesn’t remedy it, disconnect one of the wires at 
the battery terminals and it will prevent the current 
from being drained from the battery until you can 
determine the cause. 

23. Be sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. If 

the car is dead and lights won’t light, nor motor 
start, this must be caused from corrosion at the bat¬ 
tery terminals obstructing the flow of the current. 

24. Don't allow the carburetor to leak. This may be 

caused from a tiny particle of dirt under the needle 
valve or the float may be stuck. Jar the manifold 
lightly with a hammer to release the float. 









108 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


25. Don’t try to adjust the carburetor unless you know 

how, and then be sure the motor is warm, that the 
ignition is perfect and that the compression of your 
motor is normal. 

26. Don’t be misled in testing a spark plug. Widen the 

gap when testing, as the conditions under which the 
current must jump the gap, under compression of 
the motor, are different than a test in the open air. 

27. Don't allow water or moisture to collect around your 

ignition unit, high tension wires or plugs, as water 
is a good conductor of electricity and will lead the 
current to ground before it has a chance to jump 
the gap in the spark plug. 

28. Don’t test your battery with a hydrometer after you 

have added distilled water and thinned the solution. 
Test it first. 

29. Be sure and close your throttle before releasing the 

clutch to shift gears. 

30. Be sure and release the clutch before shifting gears. 

31. Don’t run on a flat tire. If you have to come, remove 

the tire and wrap a rope around the rim. 

32. Be sure and prime your motor in cold weather. If 

a drain cock isn’t handy tie a piece of string around 
the neck of a valve dust cover and bail gas from 
your tank. 





109 


A Checking System of Upkeep 


Knowledge is not knowing about a thing, 
but knowing the thing. 

An adjustment made at the proper time, 
will save more work than the 
stitch that saved nine. 


THRIFT 


Means Economical Management. 


SYSTEM 


Is the Axis on which this Com¬ 
mercial World revolves. 



Must be used in Properly Caring 
for Your Car. 




















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